Shipboard marking is an internal navigation system inside a steel hull. These letters help people locate emergency exits, shut down ventilation, and isolate fuel and water lines. Paint on metal cracks quickly, stencils wear off, and after a couple of seasons some inscriptions turn into blurry smudges. That is why shipyards and crews are increasingly switching to raised 3D rubber letters and symbols that last longer and remain easier to read.
For marine applications, the baseline requirements are expanded to include resistance to seawater, salt deposits, and petroleum products. This is why manufacturers focus on rubber and polyurethane systems with strong adhesion to metal and long-term color stability. A similar approach has long been used in 3D decals and raised lettering for boats and yachts: a clear domed layer protects the inscription from scratches and fading, while the structure itself adheres confidently to fiberglass, steel, and aluminum hulls.
The rubber layer thickness is chosen so the letters keep their shape while still being able to follow a slight curve of the hull or a door panel. The base may be self-adhesive and designed for marine conditions, or it may be installed with mechanical fasteners when the surface is subject to heavy wear and impact.
First, a sheet rubber material of suitable thickness and hardness is selected. Then the operator installs the required die in the base – a metal frame die for a specific symbol. With a single press stroke, the die cuts a clean letter or sign of the required size from the sheet. For shipboard inscriptions, a common format is around 70 × 70 mm, with a character height of roughly 10 cm. This ensures readability from a distance.
After cutting, the individual elements are assembled into words and phrases. This can be the vessel's name, a compartment number, an emergency button label, or a warning sign. The letters are temporarily fixed to a backing, aligned along a baseline, and test-fitted to the installation area. Then the inscription is glued or mechanically attached to the metal. Practical experience with 3D boat lettering shows that without thorough cleaning and degreasing, even high-quality raised decals lose adhesion – especially on smooth gelcoat or painted metal.
The final step is painting or applying a contrasting background. The inscription may remain the natural color of the rubber element, or it may be coated with paint together with the surface to achieve the desired contrast and consistency with the vessel's navigation marking system.
If needed, shipyards also use alternative methods (for example, laser cutting and laser engraving of rubber, where symbols are burned from a digital template). This approach works well for complex graphics, but it requires dedicated laser equipment and is less convenient for quick work directly on board – where a hand press with a set of ready dies is often noticeably more practical.
Materials and design of 3D rubber letters
As noted on https://stormcut.space/, ship and industrial-equipment marking typically uses synthetic rubber or silicone compounds. These materials were originally developed for patches, labels, and sewn-on logos. They tolerate bending, moisture, and heat, and they do not crumble as they age.For marine applications, the baseline requirements are expanded to include resistance to seawater, salt deposits, and petroleum products. This is why manufacturers focus on rubber and polyurethane systems with strong adhesion to metal and long-term color stability. A similar approach has long been used in 3D decals and raised lettering for boats and yachts: a clear domed layer protects the inscription from scratches and fading, while the structure itself adheres confidently to fiberglass, steel, and aluminum hulls.
The rubber layer thickness is chosen so the letters keep their shape while still being able to follow a slight curve of the hull or a door panel. The base may be self-adhesive and designed for marine conditions, or it may be installed with mechanical fasteners when the surface is subject to heavy wear and impact.
How 3D rubber symbols are made
One practical approach for shipyards and crews is to produce letters on board or in dry dock using a compact hand press with interchangeable dies. A typical example is the StormCut tool: a steel stand with a work surface and a manual drive designed for high force and long service life. The unit weighs about 25 kg, features a heavy-duty steel frame roughly 16 mm thick, and has a stroke that allows work with blanks up to 300 mm in height.First, a sheet rubber material of suitable thickness and hardness is selected. Then the operator installs the required die in the base – a metal frame die for a specific symbol. With a single press stroke, the die cuts a clean letter or sign of the required size from the sheet. For shipboard inscriptions, a common format is around 70 × 70 mm, with a character height of roughly 10 cm. This ensures readability from a distance.
After cutting, the individual elements are assembled into words and phrases. This can be the vessel's name, a compartment number, an emergency button label, or a warning sign. The letters are temporarily fixed to a backing, aligned along a baseline, and test-fitted to the installation area. Then the inscription is glued or mechanically attached to the metal. Practical experience with 3D boat lettering shows that without thorough cleaning and degreasing, even high-quality raised decals lose adhesion – especially on smooth gelcoat or painted metal.
The final step is painting or applying a contrasting background. The inscription may remain the natural color of the rubber element, or it may be coated with paint together with the surface to achieve the desired contrast and consistency with the vessel's navigation marking system.
If needed, shipyards also use alternative methods (for example, laser cutting and laser engraving of rubber, where symbols are burned from a digital template). This approach works well for complex graphics, but it requires dedicated laser equipment and is less convenient for quick work directly on board – where a hand press with a set of ready dies is often noticeably more practical.